First, prepare the soil well, dig it onto a full bayonet of shovels, remove weeds, add nitroammophoski per square meter per tablespoon, water the soil, spending a bucket per square meter of soil, let it “rest” for a couple of days, and you can start planting seedlings in advance making holes in which it is desirable to pour out a couple of tablespoons of wood ash to the bottom.
When planting pumpkin seedlings, choose a site where pumpkin-friendly predecessors grew, that is, potatoes, legumes that enriched the soil with available nitrogen, various root crops, and onions. Bad predecessors are zucchini, cucumbers, and melons, that is, “relatives”.
Before planting seedlings, make them so that they are leveled, so that melt or irrigation water does not run through them, making washouts, and so that you can freely move between the beds without stepping on the lashes.
Before planting, seedlings need to be hardened, first take it out for a couple of hours on the open balcony, leave it for 10-12 hours the next day, then leave it overnight, and then you can plant it in the ground.
The landing pattern between the holes is about a meter, between the rows you can also make a meter, but you can increase it to one and a half meters.
When transplanting from large containers, try to moisten the soil first, and then try to scoop up seedlings with the maximum number of roots with a tablespoon so as not to damage them, that is, replanting it with a lump of earth. The soil in the hole can also be watered, 0.5 l of water per hole is enough.
After planting, you need to squeeze the soil with your fingers so that there are no voids between the roots, and we can say that this is the end of the planting of pumpkin seedlings.
If you want the burning rays of the sun not to damage the sensitive leaves of seedlings in the first days, then you can shade them with a newspaper for a couple of days in the afternoon.
That’s all the subtleties of growing pumpkin seedlings.